WHERE
Public Dining Room, Balmoral

WHY
"Exceptional food, set on the shores of Balmoral Beach, with light and fresh interiors. It really is the ideal waterfront lunch spot. Fine dining in a modern yet relaxed setting creates a sense of relaxed sophistication. The location and ambience is the perfect setting and the service is always second to none."

WHAT
"Wild kingfish carpaccio is so fresh and light and a must have. For a main, you can't go past the six-hour slow-braised pure Suffolk lamb shoulder. The mango and lychee bombe alaska not only looks picture perfect every time but tastes even better."

ABOUT
"Cooking is not my strong point, however quinoa flakes, lemon- and thyme-crusted chicken and a sweet potato, red onion, pine nut and spinach salad is a staple meal in our household."

PUBLIC DINING ROOM
2a The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach
9968 4880, publicdiningroom.com.au
Mains $34 to $46; starters $23 to $27

Four out of five stars

Let's start at the end. Not because Public Dining Room had sadly sold out of Rachel Gilbert's dessert of choice, the fabled tropical bombe alaska, but because that's where this Balmoral spot sat on the night we visited: at the finish line of the CoastTrek 55-kilometre walk. As straggling groups limped, strutted and ambled past the glorious wall of windows onto the rarefied waterfront, diners in the swish fishbowl drank, ate and cavorted in solidarity. There are few places, after all, where teams who have completed the charity walk can quickly scrub up, then slowly wind down with a top-notch meal and view. 

What a way to celebrate.

I hadn't done the Fred Hollows fundraiser but was thirsty nonetheless and I am in praise of a sommelier who offers to split glasses of fine wine so that two parties can sample without going the whole hog. Our chablis is to go with three perfect South Coast oysters – the creamy Merimbula wins for me – and is spectacular.

I wasn't overly familiar with Public Dining Room before this outing – Balmoral is in some ways dominated by the now little-mentioned Bathers' Pavilion and the now much-mentioned Boat Shed. But Public is a quiet, sophisticated and energetic embodiment of Sydney's best bits: natural light and sparkling harbour by day and an upbeat buzz without losing its cool at night, all washed down with a wine list that does both old and new worlds Bather's Pavilion – and the pitch-perfect produce they accompany – a service.

It's not a snip, this kind of eating. My $40 (but huge) seafood soup is a treat, loaded  with flesh of all descriptions and kept lively with the odd punch of fresh chilli.

Fish of the day – saltwater barramundi – is unimprovable. It comes with pumpkin, and if anyone out there has trouble cooking a fillet of fresh fish so it's soft and cheek-like and just beyond pearly, take note: chef Kenji Miyashita​ is worth imitating. Actually, there's more than his skills I'd like to copy, not least the service, which is mature and efficient.

Our scallops starter is big enough to divide, almost overly sweet peas toughened up with the odd tear of fried pancetta. I'd have liked more of the salty punctuation. A side salad needed only good-quality olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice in place of an overly sweet dressing.

And so to the end, once again. Souffles and desserts are a heavenly pairing. As heavy feet continued to clomp toward Middle Head on the end straight, we couldn't have ended our meal on a lighter and more floaty note, carried away by raspberries and enveloping warmth and ice-creamy cold, not to mention those buttery, gingery crumbs.

We were with those walkers in spirit and eyeline, if not intention. And certainly not in wanting it to be over.