The Rathbone family's Mount Langi Ghiran makes delightfully peppery, fine-boned shiraz in Victoria's Grampians region. Wines include one of Australia's most exciting cool-climate shirazes, The Langi ($110-$120) and Cliff Edge ($27-$32), a more affordable yet still excellent example of the regional style. Billi Billi, the lowest priced of Mount Langi's red, combines shiraz from the Grampians, Swan Hill and Heathcote. It leans more to bright fruit flavours and spice than the peppery, savoury character of the more expensive wines. But it echoes the house style with its medium body and fine, drying tannins.