Epic Alaska: We have found the best way to explore the Last Frontier

Everything's bigger in Texas, until you go to Alaska. Texas is big, no doubt about that. It's the second-largest state in the US, a sprawling cowboy nation covering 695,660 square kilometres.

Yet, when Alaska officially became the 49th state of the US union in 1959, it also became the largest state by far, a sparsely populated expanse two-and-a-half times the size of Texas.

The first challenge is knowing where to take the first bite of this enormous, fascinating place. The second is how to create an itinerary that covers pristine glaciers and mountains, Native Alaskan culture, wildlife encounters, Russian ghosts and Gold Rush history.

The simple answer is to cruise. Alaska is one of the most beautiful places in the world, but in its rugged wildness it can be hard to get around. Exploring the Last Frontier by cruise ship is the way to go.

On a stellar summer day in August, I head to Vancouver's cruise terminal at Canada Place to begin the aqua adventure. Before we're even out of port, Norwegian Spirit's hot tubs are full, the poolside bar is packed and there's a recurring theme to my conversations with fellow passengers that goes something like, "How great is this weather?".

With capacity for about 2000 guests, Norwegian Spirit ticks the cruise ship Goldilocks box for me. Not too big, not too small. Completely reimagined in 2022 following an extensive bow-to-stern renovation - the most expensive refurb in NCL's history, at a cost of $US100million ($153 million) - it also appeals to me as a ship designed for grown-ups.

During the renovation, the spa doubled in size and now features an enticing thermal thalassotherapy zone, the adults-only Spice H2O pool retreat was created, and dining options were expanded to include contemporary Italian at Onda by Scarpetta. In other words, it's easy to bliss out and rest up during the first sea day.

Next morning, I'm refreshed and ready to explore Sitka, the oldest city and original capital of Alaska. For thousands of years, indigenous peoples made their homes in the area, but at the turn of the 19th century they were challenged by Russian traders with expansionist plans. After a watershed confrontation, known as the Battle of 1804, Russia claimed ownership of Sitka and then the entirety of Alaska. They did not cede ground until Alaska was sold to the US for $7 million in 1867, the ceremony occurring on Sitka's Castle Hill.

Today, visitors who want to see Russia might content themselves with a tour of St Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral. It's closed when I stop by, so I head over to Sitka National Historical Park, where beautifully carved totem poles convey the ancestry and folklore of the traditional custodians of this land.

For lunch, Sitka locals recommend Halibut Point Crab & Chowder. They tell me the Dungeness crab is locally caught by the owners and well worth the effort of cracking to extract the tender crabmeat. It's so fresh it practically jumps off the plate.

The unseasonably warm and sunny conditions spill into the next day. In Juneau, I'm inspired to repurpose Queensland's tourism slogan: Alaska. Beautiful one day, perfect the next.

The only state capital in the US inaccessible by road (arrival is by sea or air only), Juneau's land size is more than 10 times that of Canberra's, with a population of just 32,000.

Today, I'm walking and tasting my way around town with Midgi Moore, owner and Chief Eating Officer of Juneau Food Tours. A former food blogger and writer, she knows the local culinary scene inside out.

Moore says the funny thing is that Alaskans who wanted a great meal once had to travel to Seattle. Now, Seattleites are coming to Juneau. A cohort of creative chefs has reinvigorated Juneau's food scene over the past eight years, making great use of fresh-caught and foraged local produce.

On The New York Times' list of the 50 most exciting restaurants in the US, published in September, just one Alaska establishment made the cut: In Bocca al Lupo, on Juneau's 2nd Street. Chef and commercial fisherman Beau Schooler creates incredible daily specials that have been called "deeply Alaskan". We tuck into salmon polpette and fried salmon wings as we talk about the local food scene and indigenous traditions.

"In the Tlingit language, there's no word for hunger," says Moore. "That's because there's so much bounty on the land and sea and the people are so skilled at living and eating sustainably."

The Tlingit, indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast, have fished these waters for generations. Today, commercial fishing is a way of life in Alaska, the state's top export by far; halibut permits can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Moore explains that the price of Alaskan seafood can seem expensive, but that's what you pay for excellent quality. To prove her point, she leads us to Taku Fisheries ("I once spotted Chef Morimoto here [of Iron Chef fame]," she says) for a taste of smoked halibut spread on a bagel, then on to Tracy's King Crab Shack for the best crab cakes and bisque I've ever eaten. At the headquarters of Taste Alaska!, we enjoy smoked salmon dip and caviar, kelp salsa and spruce-tip jelly.

Kicking back in the sun at Deckhand Dave's food-truck lot over excellent rockfish tacos and local beer, I'm beginning to understand why many people (including Moore) visit the state on holiday and end up living there.

I hear a similar story from Dale, our guide onboard Juneau Lighthouse Tours' whale-watching cruise. He says he's lived all over, but nowhere has ever felt more like home than Alaska.

Relaxing on the MV Beacon, a 50-foot custom-built boat, we spot our first spouting humpback, just 15 minutes after leaving the pier in Juneau. Within minutes, there's two, then four, then more than we can count. It's exhilarating to watch giants of the sea as they shoot out of the water and pirouette like super-sized grey ballerinas.

Tour operators are mandated not to approach within a hundred yards (90 metres) of the whales, but the whales obey no such rules. They can, and do, approach the boat for a stickybeak.

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At Icy Strait Point the next day, there are more whales, plus a few bear sightings for the far-sighted. Spectacular thrills await the brave with more hands-on adventures, including the world's largest ZipRider, with six ziplines soaring 100 metres above the rainforest. I'm content with the rush I feel soaring up and down the steep incline of Hoonah Mountain a few times on the Sky Glider in an eight-person red gondola. One ticket includes unlimited rides; I go around three times to feast on the forest-and-ocean views.

In Skagway, history comes to life along the main thoroughfare, where Gold Rush-era buildings have been preserved as part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Through cleverly curated exhibits, visitors are encouraged to learn about the men and women who came from all over the world to seek their fortunes in the goldfields more than 125 years ago.

History buffs and train fans should not miss the opportunity to ride in a vintage locomotive as it climbs from Skagway towards Canada on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, winding past some of the best scenery in the south-eastern part of the state. I snap dozens of photos of waterfalls and gorges, sparing a thought for the 35,000 men who toiled with rudimentary tools to hew the railroad from wilderness at the end of the 19th century.

All too soon, our cruise is coming to an end, but not before one final showstopper sight to behold: Hubbard Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier in North America. The sight of the soaring blue-and-white honeycomb ice cliffs is breathtaking, a scene so perfect it might have been the inspiration for Frozen. I peer through binoculars in the hope of glimpsing icebergs as they calve into the surrounding fjord.

Many times on this trip, I have to remind myself I'm in the US and not in some chocolate-box Scandinavian land. Alaska doesn't just feel like another country, it feels like another world.

1. Whale watching: The mighty mammals love to play in Alaska's fjords, bays and ocean water.

2. Wildlife: More than a whale's world, you might spot black bears, sea lions, moose and eagles.

3. Northern lights: The best time to catch sight of the dreamy lights is between late August and April.

4. Incredible seafood: Wild-caught fish, salmon chowder and king crabs with legs as long as your arm. 'Nuff said.

5. Romance of the rails: In 2023, Alaska Railroad celebrated its 100th year of passenger rides in the vast state.

6. Gold rush history: The great gold rush migration that began in 1896-97 profoundly shaped Alaska as it is today.

7. Scenery like no other: Truly exhilarating landscapes, pristine glaciers and untamed wilderness thrill the senses.

At every port stop, another opportunity to shop for souvenirs. Look for the official Made in Alaska emblem (a mother bear and her cub), so that money stays in local communities. What to buy:

Salmon everything. It's considered the best in the world for a reason. Take home (and declare) salmon jerky, gourmet cans and shelf-stable smoked salmon.

Jewellery and trinkets. However large or small your budget, you can find lovely whale-tail pendants, larimar earrings, gold rings and semi-precious gemstones.

Ulu knives. Prized for their functionality, art and symbolism, the Inuit all-purpose knives are made in Alaska. Securely wrap and pack them in a bag that you'll be checking in.

Edible souvenirs. Stock up on caribou and elk jerky, sustainable kelp marmalade and incredible sea-salt caramels.

Arts, crafts and carvings. Those marked with an Authentic Native Handicraft from Alaska logo have been made by a member of an officially recognised Indian tribe.

Getting there: Fly direct from Sydney to Vancouver on Air Canada. Virgin Australia offers codeshare connections on domestic flights to Sydney. aircanada.com; virginaustralia.com

Touring there: Juneau Food Tours' A Tour with Taste is a 2.5-hour daytime walking tour. Book ahead at juneaufoodtours.com

Alaska's only lighthouse and whale-watching adventure cruise can be booked by contacting Juneau Lighthouse Tours. juneaulighthousetours.com

Staying there: Always plan to arrive a day or two ahead of cruise embarkation. Stay in the heart of trendy Yaletown at Opus Vancouver, a lovely boutique hotel in a walkable neighbourhood. opushotel.com

Cruising there: NCL knows Alaska well, with seven ships departing from six ports in 2024. Although Norwegian Spirit won't be sailing in Alaska this year, enjoy the region on one of the fleet's other ships, including Norwegian Encore and Norwegian Bliss. A seven-day Alaska cruise on Norwegian Encore is priced from $2170 per person. ncl.com

When to go: Alaska's cruising season is mainly from May to September, coinciding with the northern summer months. Expect the most sunny, warm days in July and August.

Explore more: travelalaska.com

The writer travelled with assistance from Norwegian Cruise Line.

Pictures: Shutterstock; Getty Images; supplied